It was a meal at a vineyard near Cape Town, South Africa that led to an unexpected trip to explore one of the region’s most exciting cuisines. I spent the whole day checking out the wine scene near Cape Town. A day that took me to four wine estates all in a couple of hours from what has quickly become one of my favorite cities in the world. Le Pommier (the apple tree in French) vineyard was once a flourishing apple orchard (hence the name) that began in the 1690s. It is located between the main routes between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, two wine hotspots. It was here that I first tried Bobotie, a South African casserole. I went straight to the origin of this dish and discovered Cape Malay cuisine in one of the most ‘Instagrammed’ places in Cape Town.
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In Picture: Bo-Kaap Area
Ask any local for the most photogenic neighborhood in Cape Town, and there’s a good chance you’ll be directed to Bo-Kaap (translates to ‘high Cape’ in Afrikaans). Almost every corner in this square that used to be known as the Malay Quarter of the city is a good place for pictures. Brightly colored houses complement cobbled streets in an area that contains the largest concentration of pre-1850 architecture in South Africa. Bo-Kaap Kombuis is a local legend and restaurant serving authentic Cape Malay cuisine. So what is this unique dish and where does it come from? A trip to the area’s Bo-Kaap museum is your best bet for stories that go back to the days of the Dutch East India Company.
Cape Town developed from a colony established at the Cape of Good Hope by the Dutch. During this period the Dutch also colonized the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) and Dutch Malacca (now in Malaysia – which is also a hub for Peranakan cuisine) from 1641 to 1824. The Dutch brought many slaves from this region which also included a large number of Indians. they are Muslims. Slavery was abolished in the 19th century after the British took control of the area. Most of the freed slaves began to gather around Cape Town which was the only center of Islam in the region. Bo-Kaap is also home to the historic Nurul mosque which was established in the 1840s. The community has since become known as the Cape Malay community although many are also from India. The community began to develop its own unique cuisine which is now recognized as one of the most unique micro cuisines in South Africa.
Pictured: Dessert plates at Bo-Kaap Kombuis
Yusuf and Nazli who founded Bo-Kaap Kombuis (cook house) are from the area. I didn’t announce my arrival and chose one of three Cape Malay tasting plates and a dessert plate. Tasting plates include lamb curry, bobotie and chicken curry served with rice, Malay-style sambal and rooti (spelled with an extra ‘o’). Each of these dishes has a unique taste. Mutton curry has a unique sour taste. The team explained how many dishes contained turmeric, cumin and coriander in addition to the masala. Some dishes also include cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. While the Malay influence is dominant, you will also see Indian influences and South African elements in the cuisine. Curries are usually paired with rooties. Rooting the layer consists of butter, flour and water. It is closer to the Malabar parotta of South India than the roti of North India.
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In Picture: Weight
Faldela Williams can take much of the credit for the renewed interest in Cape Malay cuisine. He has authored three cookbooks including the Cape Malay Cookbook which gives a great insight into his unique taste and style of cooking. Here are some of the Cape Malay dishes that you must try when you are in South Africa. Let’s have a look.
Here are 5 Classic Dishes from Cape Malay Cuisine:
1. Koe’shine:
A traditional Cape Malay cake with a cake-like texture sprinkled with desiccated coconut. It is prepared from balls of dough seasoned with spices like cinnamon and cardamom before being cooled, cooked in boiling syrup before being topped with coconut.
2. Society:
Sate or sate – skewers served with peanut sauce, is one of Malaysia’s most famous dishes. Sosatie is Cape Town’s version and takes its name from satay and saus (for spicy sauce). Pork chops are marinated (usually overnight) with seasonings like garlic and curry leaves and then fried or grilled.
3. Bobotie:
It is sometimes referred to as the national dish of South Africa because of its popularity. This casserole (sometimes served in restaurants in a cast iron pan) contains curried ground beef in the base with a layer of egg custard on top. The version I tried was served with yellow rice and sambal as a complement.
4. Biryani
The Cape Malay version is unique in that it uses lentils along with meat. The spices are similar to the Indian version of biryani but the rice, lentils, meat and gravy are cooked separately and mixed together.
5. Tomato Bredie:
The name is taken from the Afrikaans word for stew (bredie). This stew is now eaten throughout the country but is believed to have been introduced by the Tanjung Malays. This spiced stew combines tomatoes, mutton ribs and vegetables cooked for a long time with spices.
