Panaji: The exposition of the relics of St. Francis Xavier in 1952 was an unprecedented spectacle. Marking the 400th anniversary of the saint’s death, this edition of the Exposition was held for the first time in Se Cathedral, far from the Basilica of Bom Jesus. It was a highly publicized event that created a large gathering, including foreign media, as Portugal used the occasion as propaganda to showcase Goa’s European culture.
“It became one of the important events where the Portuguese colonial state was able to gather not only the available resources, but also the support of the local population.” Vishvesh P KandolkarArchitectural historian and associate professor at Goa College of Architecture, told TOI. “If there is an event that celebrates people like Afonso de Albuquerque (architect of the Portuguese Empire) or Vasco da Gama (Portuguese explorer, who first reached India by sea), is anyone interested? Goans consider St. Francis Xavier as part of their heritage and therefore, strategic very much that St. Francis Xavier was the center of the narrative of the Portuguese state at that time.
The ‘Itinerant Saint: Golden Architecture of Goa and 1952 Exposition of St. Francis Xavier‘S Relics’, Kandolkar notes the Exposition is a careful manipulation of Goa’s past presented for political purposes.
For the first time, the Exposition was held in Se Cathedral instead of the basilica, as Portugal was keen to show the greatness of the cathedral, the mother church of Goa and the seat of the archbishop. The grand procession of the body from one church to another also made a record number of pilgrims to witness this event together.
“It is not a procession that was not a feature of the previous Exposition. Previously, on the opening day, the main celebrant (and other religious heads) would start the procession from the Se Cathedral and arrive at the basilica, where they would receive the relics. This time, the procession was considered more important because with the holy body,” said Kandolkar.
The explanation for having the Exposition in Se Cathedral is that it is a larger church, in terms of size. Which is true, because the cathedral can accommodate more people. However, in reality, Portugal is more interested in displaying its greatness.
“Architecture-wise, if you look at the interior, the complexity of the ceiling, the crossing, the deep deer in the main area of the church, it is bigger. Any casual person will be more influenced by the interior of Se Cathedral than the basilica,” said Kandolkar.
In ‘The Architecture of Colonialism’, Joaquim Rodrigues dos Santos notes that, as happened in Portugal, Goan monuments and historical celebrations were used by the dictatorship as powerful ideological propaganda tools. “The Basilica of Bom Jesus, the main symbol of Goa and the place of pilgrimage of the Apostle of the East, was chosen for restoration in the context of the celebration of the fourth centenary of the death of St. Francis Xavier in 1952,” he wrote.
Portugal appointed Baltazar da Silva Castro, former director of Portugal’s monuments department, to oversee the architectural restoration of buildings in Old Goa. Instead of making significant changes, the restorers removed the white plaster of the Basilica, leaving the underlying brown laterite stone exposed.
Like the basilica, the Viceroy’s Arch and the main altar in the Cathedral were also ‘restored’, as Portugal tried to get the message out that it wanted to keep the historic monument. Importantly, no new buildings or churches were added.
“Essentially, the state is using the ideologically motivated restoration of 16th/17th century monuments to divert attention from the government’s failure to offer large and new developments in Goa. Similarly, these works are being carried out because the architectural heritage of historical monuments is as important as sacred relics. which is 400 years old,” Kandolkar wrote.